While snow is scarce in several places, the Austrian village of Obertilliach offers around 35km of cross-country ski trails. Read more about this area, where snow is reliable, and you won’t be squeezed into tracks crowded with skiers.

Silence, peace, heaps of snow, wooden hay barns, and the soft sound of skis gliding beneath your feet. The mountain village of Obertilliach may be one of the well-known Alpine ski resorts. Still, thanks to its limited accommodation capacity, you certainly won’t encounter crowds of cross-country skiers on the tracks.

Obertilliach lies in a relatively deep valley. To the south, mountains rise to around 2,500 meters above sea level, along which runs the Italian-Austrian border. To the north, there are lower hills, but these host alpine ski slopes. The border between the regions of Tyrol and Carinthia crosses the valley. The village itself lies at about 1,450 meters above sea level, and on skis you will move roughly ±200 meters around this altitude, with one bonus we will mention later.

Accommodation is best sought directly in the village. Capacity is relatively limited, with no large hotels; instead, guesthouses and private accommodation. The quality is solid, and above all, you are always close to the ski tracks. Even if you stay at the opposite end of the village, don’t worry, Obertilliach has fewer than 1,000 inhabitants. Everything is close, and above all, this is not an overcrowded destination, thanks to the relatively small alpine ski area and the limited number of available beds.

If you cannot find accommodation directly in Obertilliach, we recommend looking higher up. Going down the valley, snow conditions often worsen, and conditions change. Simply put, it will no longer be “blue wax” skiing. If you find something in the village of Leiten, you will start your day with a beautiful downhill run into the center of the trail network.

Skiing in this area can also be seen as a pleasant stop on the way to Toblach, another well-known ski destination.

The local biathlon stadium also offers activities in summer. You can roller ski on a fairly demanding 4.5 km track with banked turns.

Cross-country ski trails

Everything starts and usually ends at the biathlon stadium, from which most trails in Obertilliach originate. The stadium is located in a shaded area and, thanks to reliable snow conditions, is better positioned than the rest of the trail network. Since the course starts at the foot of Mount Hoher Borsing, which rises above it to the southwest up to 2,324 meters above sea level, there is often fresh powder snow there.

You can choose from racing loops up to 5km long. These trails are extensive, artificially snowed, and banked. However, training here all day is difficult, so sooner or later you will head out into the surrounding hills.

The main route runs along the Gail River. The section between Kartitsch and Maria Luggau, with its gentle profile, is fully marked as the Grenzlandloipe and offers beautiful views of the entire valley and the surrounding hills.

Around Obertilliach, there are trails laid across sloping meadows between typical Austrian hay barns. Trails winding among these barns are not only a feast for the eyes but especially for photographers. You will find them in almost every photo from this area. As you head toward Maria Luggau, the valley gradually descends and becomes warmer.

On the northern side of the Gail River, the valley opens up. Once you cross the river, you enter narrower forest paths and hilly terrain. A significant advantage is that you do not need to cross roads, and skiing is mostly very smooth and continuous. On the other hand, conditions change quite often between shaded and sunny snow, making it a bit harder to choose the right wax. Under no circumstances should you test kick waxes at the biathlon stadium.

Option for beginners

Obertilliach – Aufwärmrunde

The easiest loop is about 1.5 km long and offers one significant advantage: it is artificially snowed. It is usually prepared very early, already in October or at the latest in November.

Things get tougher toward Leiten, especially on the northern side of the Gail River. There you can find switchbacks and climbs that require proper herringbone technique. The course of Austria’s largest long-distance race, the Dolomitenlauf, usually runs here as well. Although the official course is marked lower in the valley near Lienz, due to snow conditions, it is often moved up to Obertilliach.

Uphill by lift

As a bonus tip, here is a recipe for a true skiing adventure. Get in the car and drive to the lift at St. Oswald. For the brave, it might be possible to ski up, but if you prefer comfort, persuade the lift operator to take you up. The lift is at least three kilometers long, a classic double lift, so your legs will hurt anyway. Don’t expect queues here. You exit the lift in complete silence at just over 1,800 meters above sea level.

From here begins the approximately 10km long Hohenloipe Dorfberg. Plan this tour for good weather, the views will stay with you for a long time. The track is prepared with a classic grooming machine, and when skating, your baskets may sink slightly, but that’s nothing that will bother you here. The route alternates between forested and open sections, offering stunning views on both sides of the ridge. The profile is demanding, with the highest point at 1,950 meters. No one gets in your way, and if you need selfies for your Instagram profile, you won’t find a better place in Obertilliach.

Trail fees

It is important to note that all trails are paid. Tickets (passes) can be purchased at the biathlon stadium and at the information center in Obertilliach.

Other interesting sports activities

Directly on the alpine slopes above Obertilliach, you can enjoy a natural toboggan run. It measures an incredible 6.6km and descends in switchbacks from 2,000 meters above sea level, dropping 600 vertical meters. You can rent sleds at the bottom station of the lift and either jog up for about an hour or take the chairlift up easily. The only downside is that sledding is only possible during the alpine ski area’s opening hours, as the track is not illuminated.

At the biathlon stadium, you can hire a shooting coach, and the village regularly organizes affordable shooting days, where for a few euros you can borrow ammunition and try how “easy” it is to hit the targets both at rest and while out of breath.

Of course, you can also use the alpine ski slopes, of which there are several dozen kilometers above the village. From the top station of the gondola lift, marked snowshoe trails start. The gondola also operates in summer and serves as a starting point for many hiking routes. Mountain biking is possible on the opposite steep slopes, where you can also find via ferrata routes.

Local food and entertainment

Gourmets can indeed find better culinary destinations in the Alps. Due to the relatively low population, there are only a few restaurants, but they are pleasant and not expensive. Light refreshments are also available at the biathlon stadium. A nice view of the ski slopes can be enjoyed from the restaurant. Entertainment is offered fairly regularly at the only après-ski bar by the ski school, where the whole village gathers. When there are guests, you can even celebrate a sunny day on skis there. Enjoy it.

• Location: Lienz district, Tyrol, Austria
• Cross-country ski trails: approx. 100 km
• Altitude: 1,450 m above sea level
• Website: osttirol.com/Obertilliach
• Contact: info@osttirol.com

The article has been updated. Published initially on bezky.net in November 2022.